JUMP TO RECIPE

In Britain, World War II wreaked havoc with so many areas of people’s lives. Millions were forced to leave homes, jobs and families to fight people they had never seen before. The ones left at home had to keep everything running on top of meeting the extra demands of war.

After long working hours, they then had to stand in lines at shops to trade their ration coupons for food. But most of the common foods were available only in small quantities or not at all. For an island nation used to meat, the dietary changes were substantial.

The Savoy Hotel’s Magnificent Creation

A chef at the Savoy Hotel in London created a recipe that ended up becoming one of the most well-known wartime dishes in England. Named after Lord Woolton, who became Britain’s Minister of Food in 1940, Woolton Pie helped fill the gap—and the stomachs—of hungry families.

Compared to some of the other pinch-hitting substitutions at the time, such as snoek, whale and organ meats, Woolton Pie was actually a success. Seasoned properly, it made a tasty and filling meal.

Several versions of the recipe have been published, such as this one from Major Lloyd George, Parliamentary Secretary to the Ministry of Food:

Marguerite Patten’s recipe

I decided to try Marguerite Patten’s version. She was the Julia Child of her era (before Julia Child!), developing and demonstrating recipes for weary homemakers who needed ideas for meals on the ration. Her version is similar to Major George’s except that it separates the cooking of the vegetables and oats, and she offered the idea of a simple mashed potato topping.

The Importance of Being Versatile

The recipe is versatile and forgiving, easy to adapt to the vegetables in season. It is also good in times of scarcity as well as in times when fat or meat could be added. Even without the gravy, which is the only source of a bit of fat for this meal, the pie is good.

Both of the recipes I found call for vegetable extract, which I couldn’t find. A vegetable bouillon or concentrate could be a good substitute to add more flavor. I decided to use homemade vegetable broth that I made from the leftover bits of leeks, onion skins, parsley stems and carrot peels. Then, I added a dash of Worcestershire sauce and coconut aminos. There must be endless ways to work around vegetable extract.

Below is my adaptation of Marguerite Patten’s recipe, along with two topping recipes and a brown gravy recipe. If you need a simple meal idea that can stretch to feed as many as ten people, Woolton Pie is a great option—especially with the brown gravy but even without it. If you try it, I would love to hear your variations. It is a quintessential recipe for frugal or trying times.

REFERENCES

Patten, Marguerite. Victory Cookbook: Nostalgic Food and Facts 1940-1954. London: Chancellor Press, 2014.

“Better is a dish of vegetables where love is than a fattened ox served with hatred.”

Proverbs 15:17