During World War II, Summer was the season when folks on the home front scoured hedgerows and byways, as well as orchards and victory gardens, for food to preserve. In countries where sugar was heavily rationed, governments increased weekly allotments so fruits could be canned. It was important to preserve everything possible, but fruit jams were especially important because they provided energy and vitamins during winter months.

Berries were popular for canning because they could be found growing wild. Apples could also be grown in most places. What a lot of people missed were tropical fruits such as bananas and citrus. Except for the occasional oranges, such fruits were not available to many during the War.

Using Every Scrap: Nutrition on the Ration

Nutritional requirements became a hot topic in this era because governments had seen the effects of malnutrition during the First World War. Without keeping everyone healthy, there would have been no way to win the Second World War.

When oranges could be brought in, they were meted out only for young children so they could get enough vitamin C. Everyone else had to forage for rosehips, which were made into a vitamin syrup. If adults wanted to savor the aroma or flavor of oranges, they had to be creative with the orange rinds!

This week’s recipe was a brilliant solution. It is from Victory Cookbook by Marguerite Patten, who was one of the most famous cookery demonstrators during the War. The rind from even one orange could make a few jars. With two or three rinds, enough delicious orange marmalade could be made to enjoy throughout the winter. Apples made up for the missing orange pulp.

If sugar was still too limited for the quantity of fruit someone had, honey or corn syrup could be substituted when making jams, jellies or preserves. Prudence Penny’s Coupon Cookery explains how:

Pectin and Sugar Substitutes

I tried the recipe using two-thirds sugar and one-third corn syrup, without adding any pectin. I allowed the marmalade to boil, skimming off any foam, until a small amount set quickly when placed on a cold plate. (I kept a saucer in the refrigerator for testing.)

If you prefer a totally jelled marmalade, you may want to add pectin. I opted not to use it, to find out what would happen if pectin were not available. I did, however, boil the apple rinds and cores in a separate saucepan for about 25 minutes and then added 1 cup of that strained liquid to the marmalade mixture at the same time I added the apples. Apples are a high-pectin fruit and most of it is in the rinds and cores. Orange pith also contains pectin.

When the marmalade had boiled to a syrupy consistency and set on the cold plate, I removed it from the heat and measured it into sterilized jars. If planning to keep it for long-term storage, water-bath canning would be required. I opted to refrigerate mine after allowing it to cool to room temperature.

When cool, it appeared there was not enough pectin to make the marmalade jell. However, after being in the refrigerator overnight, it was a perfect consistency for spreading on toast. And, what fantastic orange flavor! I got a scant nine cups of marmalade from two orange rinds, seven small apples, two cups of sugar, and 1¾ cups of corn syrup.

Besides using on toast, orange marmalade is wonderful when baking chicken. It adds great flavor to cake fillings and frostings. It is delicious on warm brownies and on ice cream. It adds depth of flavor to compotes and sauces. It also takes Asian lemon sauce to another level. This recipe is a perfect example of how homemakers during World War II made do and used up every scrap, without wasting anything.

REFERENCES

Patten, Marguerite OBE. Victory Cookbook: Nostalgic Food and Facts 1940-1954. London: Octopus Publishing Group, Ltd. 2014.

Penny, Prudence. Coupon Cookery. Hollywood, CA: Murray & Gee, Inc. 1943.

You make known to me the path of life;
in your presence there is fullness of joy;
at your right hand are pleasures forevermore.

Psalm 16:11