The Spy Who Made Soup
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When you think of chefs who made French food famous, who comes to mind? If you said Julia Child, you would be in good company. Although she was an American who never learned to cook until around the age of 40, she became an expert at both making and teaching others to make French food. But did you know Julia’s first career was as a spy, and her first recipe was for shark repellant?
An Unlikely Spy
Born into a well-to-do family, cooking was never required of Julia. Her father was a banker and her mother was heiress to the Weston Paper Company of Massachusetts. She was a good student but without any special passions or ambitions. After college she began working as a secretary—and then World War II changed her life.
Along with most people, she found war-related work. She served with the Aircraft Warning Service, a civilian branch of the US Army that spotted enemy aircraft activity. Before long, she decided to join the military full-time but because of her 6’2” height, the WACs (Women’s Army Corps) and WAVES (Women Accepted for Volunteer Emergency Service) both rejected her.
Determined to contribute more to the war effort, she became a typist in the Office of War Information and was quickly promoted to the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), the precursor to the CIA.
Julia ended up serving at multiple stations including China, India and Sri Lanka, where she met her husband, a fellow OSS officer. She left the agency after the end of the war and moved to France with Paul, her husband, who continued to work for the OSS.
A Culinary Beginning
While living in Paris, she decided to attend culinary school and the rest is history. Or perhaps it would be more correct to say she made history. She became the author of several classic cook books, the star of her own television show, and a recipient of the French Legion of Honour!
Although Julia’s first recipe was for Shark Chaser, a chemical “soup” meant to deter sharks from downed sailors, explosives and space equipment, she is best known for her French culinary masterpieces, including what she dubbed “the grandfather of all soups,” Leek & Potato Soup. Julia presented this recipe in an episode of her cooking show, The French Chef. You can see her preparing it—as well as watercress soup—by searching the title of the episode, “The Soup Show.” In this episode she explains the few minor tweaks needed to turn Leek and Potato Soup into the world-famous Vichyssoise.
A Versatile Soup for All Seasons
I decided to try the original version that she said, “really smacks of the happy home.” I can’t imagine a soup easier to make or quicker. In just under 30 minutes I went from washing the vegetables to tasting the fragrant, finished product. And this soup is so versatile! A number of other vegetables, seasonings or foods could be added. You could even use onions instead of leeks.
It is filling as made by her recipe but to turn it into an even heartier meal, serve it with drop biscuits, cornbread or crusty bread, roasted potato or sweet potato, herbed croutons, cheesy garlic bread, roasted chicken or a meat and vegetable side. Various other toppings could be added including sour cream, cheese or infused olive oil. Beans would add protein and fiber, and other vegetables—especially root vegetables—could add color and more depth of flavor.
Another wonderful aspect of this soup is that it can served either hot or chilled, so it is a perfect recipe for all seasons. Julia made hers in a non-electric pressure cooker; I made it in my Instant Pot and, other than using a small saucepan to heat the optional milk at the end, it is a one-pot recipe.
The Famous Vichyssoise
To make Vichyssoise, use only the white part of the leeks and substitute chicken stock for the water. Run the finished soup through a food mill; then, add about ½ cup of heavy cream and season with salt and white pepper. Chill, and then garnish with chopped fresh chives.
Leek & Potato Soup would have been a fabulous choice to warm and fill stomachs on cold winter days in wartime. In its most basic form it is nothing but leek, potato, salt and water. But what an encouraging, uplifting fragrance and taste it rewards you with when you make it! The cooked vegetables can be left intact for a more peasant-style soup, or lightly mashed for a more refined version. Two leeks and three potatoes are transformed into at least four generous portions, using little fuel. This is exactly the type of recipe weary homemakers would have needed.
Leek & Potato Soup (Potage Parmentier)
Ingredients
Instructions
- Thoroughly wash leeks. Trim off tough green tops and any old outer leaves. Then, chop into bite-sized pieces.
- Wash, peel and chop potatoes.
- Add vegetables, water and salt to Instant Pot. Close lid, set to sealing, and pressure cook 5 minutes. Release pressure immediately after cooking.
- Set Instant Pot to Sauté and allow soup to simmer gently for 10 minutes.
- Soup may be served as is or lightly mashed with a fork or potato masher.
- If desired, add 2 cups warm milk and white pepper to taste.
- Serve hot, or chill in refrigerator.
References
“The Soup Show,” The French Chef Season 2, Julia Child (Julia Child on PBS)
Advertisement “That Men May Live to Build a Better World,” Country Gentleman, Volume 64, No. 4, April 1944, p. 42.
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Psalm 19:14