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The extensive battlefronts of World War II wreaked havoc on the food supply in a great number of nations. Not least among the foods people missed were bread and other things made with wheat flour. Not only were wheat fields damaged in large areas, but wheat grown in other parts of the world was subject to loss at sea.

A Tuber to Replace Wheat

In areas like Singapore, an island nation, most food had to be imported, including wheat. The Japanese occupation of the island greatly increased the shortage of food. While there was no absolute famine in Singapore, food shortages led to malnutrition and disease. The death rate doubled there during the years of the occupation.

When locals could not get the usual imported foods, they had to make do with what could be grown locally. One of these foods is a tropical tuber that is filling and versatile enough for use in sweet or savory meals.

Tapioca became a gluten-free replacement for other flours that weren’t available in Southeast Asia during World War II. It became a major source of carbohydrates during the war. In the years since, it has found its way into the cuisine of nations around the world.

In Britain, tapioca was available on the points system meaning it was not rationed, but could be purchased using points coupons whenever it was available. Tapioca has a wonderful, light consistency. It also has the misfortune of having been served as part of too many low-quality wartime meals—particularly in large groups such as at schools or community feeding centers. This gave tapioca a bad reputation in some places, which is unfortunate.

Memories of Fort Bragg

My grandfather was a career Army veteran who served in Europe during World War II. Although he had retired before I came along, he and my grandmother made regular trips to Fort Bragg in North Carolina for their medicines, medical appointments and groceries. Whenever I got to go on base with them, it was the height of field trips for me—especially going to the cafeteria on base. I always got rice pudding or tapioca pudding for dessert.

Made well and served attractively, tapioca desserts can be popular with children—as my own experience proves. It can even be colored with fruit juices to make pretty, semi-translucent desserts. Or as shown here, it can be layered with other things to make pretty parfaits. Berries would have been an obvious choice, as they were plentiful in many regions, even growing wild. Tapioca is one of those ingredients that can be made into desserts for all ages.

From Tapioca to Boba

Tapioca is used around the world in flours, chips, flatbreads, puddings, parfaits and fermented drinks. It works well in both sweet and savory dishes. Its mild flavor can be complemented by a huge variety of additions. Despite being largely forgotten as a dessert in the years following World War II, tapioca is still very popular today…in the form of pearl boba! This simple tuber was just reinvented for modern consumers.

I am including two recipes here, for Berry-Time Tapioca Parfaits and Fluffy Tapioca Cream. The parfait recipe is from a 1941 magazine ad, and below the featured recipe is a suggestion for using seasonal berries with the “easy new Minute Tapioca Cream recipe on every package.” Guess what? After more than 80 years, the recipe is still on the package!

If you missed the era of tapioca—or if your memories of it are less than pleasant—I hope you will be encouraged to try making it yourself. After all, the current phenomenon of bubble tea has as its centerpiece Brown Sugar Milk Tea…with pearl boba that is tapioca.

References & Notes

Woman’s Home Companion, June 1941. New York, NY: Crowell-Collier Publishing Company, p. 99.

“I chose you and appointed you that you should go and bear fruit, and that your fruit should remain, that whatever you ask the Father in My name He may give you.”

John 15:16