Making Cold Cream, A Skin-Care Classic

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Women in the 1940s, just like today, were concerned about skin care. Even during a world war with all of its shortages and privations, personal appearance was important. In fact, in some respects it was more important—for example, red lipstick was almost a requirement for patriotic reasons. The red color was a symbol of victory and an undaunted national spirit.

Makeup was in short supply during the war and even basic skin care products required precious ingredients to manufacture. Two favorites were facial soaps and cold creams. Double cleansing is not a new phenomenon—it was popular during World War II, too! Many ads promoted careful and extremely thorough cleansing. Some women used soap for this, and others preferred cold cream.

Ancient Luxury Skin Care

Cold cream has been around since ancient times. It originally contained nourishing oils and floral-infused waters that were emulsified into a seemingly magical cleanser. Beeswax was often added to help form the ingredients into a simultaneously rich and delicate cream. Cold cream had the cleansing action of an oil along with the lightness of water.

Unfortunately, formulas have changed over time. Mass-produced cold cream is now typically made with ingredients that are more occlusive than nourishing. Oils that could offer ‘active’ benefits to the skin have been replaced by things like mineral oil. Stabilizing and preserving ingredients such as parabens are now used in many formulas.

Making Cold Cream at Home

Making cold cream at home is very simple and takes only a few minutes. It requires only water (rosewater or another floral infusion is most common), a facial oil, beeswax and an emulsifier. Practically any single oil or combination of oils can be used—choose the oil(s) you prefer for your skin type. There is also an array of emulsifying agents including the old standby, borax.

Borax is a natural mineral that forms when seasonal lakes repeatedly evaporate. It is generally considered safe to use in small amounts. You just need to be careful when using it, and don’t eat or inhale it. Keep it away from pets and children, the same as you would with your cleaning products. It is a natural ingredient used in a tiny amount, and I prefer it to the paraben-containing ingredients in mass-produced cold creams, and it has a long history of use as an emulsifier.

The recipe included here has a minimum of ingredients that would have been available through the ages. It yields a delightfully rich-but-light cold cream. It is highly customizable for different skin types. And, it comes together in a matter of minutes. It is just the kind of thing women during the war might have enjoyed.

Cold Cream

Cold Cream

Yield approx. 6 ounces (170g)
Author adapted by Harriett Sebastian
A simple and easy cold cream that can be made with your choice of facial oils

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. Dissolve borax in rosewater; then, heat to almost boiling.
  2. In a separate pot, heat oil and beeswax until melted and clear.
  3. Slowly pour water into oil (along with essential oil, if using), blending continuously with an immersion blender until mixture turns glossy and thickens.
  4. Pour into sterilized, lidded jar. Cool before use.

References

Pond’s Cold Cream advertisement. Good Housekeeping, Vol. 118 No. 3. March 1944. New York, NY: Hearst Corp., p. 63.

Lady Esther 4-Purpose Face Cream advertisement. Country Gentleman, Vol. 114 No. 4. April 1944. Philadelphia, PA: The Curtis Publishing Company, p. 95.

“And we know that all things work together for good to those who love God, to those who are the called according to His purpose.”

Romans 8:28

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