Let Them Eat (Transatlantic) Cake
JUMP TO RECIPES
Not even a world war could stop the longing for special foods at times of celebration. Turning those longings into reality sometimes took a good deal of creativity.
Wartime Cakes from America & England
Keeping Hunger at Bay
In areas where World War II was not being fought on the ground—such as in the United States and Canada—there was rationing but ingredients were not as scarce as in war-ravaged areas. The North American nations were rationing to ensure food for the military as well as to send to Allies.
In Britain the importance of having enough food could not be overestimated. Without it, the war might have been lost. Hunger problems from World War I had been duly noted. By the beginning of World War II, the government had plans at the ready. They had to be sure each person had enough to eat; had the right kinds of food to be healthy and productive; and had enough variety to prevent food fatigue.
Living with resolve in war
Those on the Home Front had the enormous task of keeping the country running while also supplying the military. This included not only food but also munitions, aircraft, ships, submarines, parachutes and every other wartime necessity.
One of the ways they managed was by maintaining as much normalcy as possible in daily life. Even when silk became impossible to get—and the limited supply was used for parachutes—entire groups of women passed around the same wedding gown as each needed it. When cake icing became illegal due to the sugar shortage, they fashioned elaborate cardboard covers for their wedding cakes, to make them look iced.
Women used gravy browning to draw seam lines on the backs of their legs because they couldn’t get stockings. Homemakers made mock everything—mock cream, mock mincemeat, mock sausages, mock marzipan, mock icing, mock duck, mock goose, mock turkey (a recipe for it is on this website)—and even mock orange juice!
People lived by the slogan “Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without.” During times of celebration, recreating as many familiar things as possible was the plan. The Nursery School Association of Great Britain published the pamphlet Improvised Toys for Nurseries and Refugee Camps with instructions for homemade dolls, trains, horses and teddy bears. Bits of paper or tissue paper transformed into decorations. And phenomenal ingenuity created some variation of most-loved recipes—including cake.
Wartime Cakes
Comparing wartime magazines from the US and UK, the level of rationing is obvious, especially of sugar. The US was able to grow both sugar cane and sugar beets. In the UK, other foods took priority in gardens. This meant homemakers learned to substitute other sweeteners, such as fruit preserves or marmalade, along with dried fruits, to add sweetness to desserts.
Included here are two authentic wartime cake recipes—one from the United States and one from England. The American cake uses only sugar. The British recipe uses sugar, condensed milk, raisins and marmalade. The government published an entire flyer on the use of condensed milk as a sugar substitute. Although the American cake is somewhat sweeter (and keeps longer without becoming dry), the British cake is also very good.
Both cakes are delicious plain but could be changed up by topping with warm preserves, cream, custard, sauce or drizzled icing. Both recipes are simple and the batters come together quickly; it only takes a few minutes to get either of them in the oven. These recipes do not make enormous layer cakes, but only enough to be eaten fresh by a family or small group. During war, this strategy helped people enjoy variety without worrying about food storage. This was a blessing especially in Britain—not many homes had refrigerators or enough fuel to keep kitchens at a constant temperature.
On either side of the Atlantic, making special foods for celebrations not only helped maintain normalcy and bring comfort, but also demonstrated a deeply held conviction about a way of life—and a relentless resolve to carry on until victory was achieved.
Two-Minute Cake
Ingredients
Instructions
- Put ingredients into bowl in order given, then beat all together vigorously for 2 minutes.
- Bake in wax paper-lined 9-inch square pan in moderate oven, 375°F, 30 minutes.
Condensed Milk Cake
Ingredients
Instructions
- Rub the margarine into the flour and add the baking powder if used, sugar and dried fruit.
- Mix to a soft consistency with the marmalade, milk and beaten eggs.
- Turn into a greased 6-inch cake tin and bake in a moderate oven [375°F/190°C] for 45 minutes.
References
Woman’s Day, March 1945. Vol. 8 No. 6. New York, NY: Stores Publishing Company, Inc., p. 51.
Norman, Jill (Foreward). Eating for Victory: Healthy Home Front Coking on War Rations. Reproductions of Official Second World War Instruction Leaflets. London: Michael O’Mara Books Ltd., 2007.
“And other sheep I have, which are not of this fold: them also I must bring, and they shall hear my voice; and there shall be one fold, and one shepherd.”
John 10:16